Getting into the spirit of being away
When travelling solo it always takes me some time getting into the spirit of being away. My time in Cartagena kind of reflected that. It can get a bit overwhelming suddenly being on the other side of the world all by yourself. That being said, Cartagena certainly is the perfect place to start your long-term solo travels. Right from the start Cartagena felt safe and easily manageable. At no point have I felt unsafe, even when walking through the city on my own after dark.
Where I stayed in Cartagena
I ended up spending my entire week in Hostel Mamallena, located in the Getsemani area. My booking was initially for three nights, in case I did not like it, but I later decided to extend my stay. I stayed in a 8 bed dorm, where people came and went quite frequently, which led to me having quite a number of roommates during my stay. The room had an ensuite bathroom and a 24/7 AC. This is apparently unusual in Colombia, but was highly appreciated in the Cartagena heat. The hostel also offers free pancakes and coffee for breakfast, although I barely ever made it for breakfast as I had Spanish classes at 8am. The staff is nice and helpful, and one of them even borrowed me 20 000 COP upon arrival when my taxi driver refused to give me change for a 50 000 COP note. Very appreciated by a somewhat stressed girl who had just arrived in a new country and was running around looking for change.
Mamallena is a very social hostel, and there are always people having a few drinks in the common areas. At the same time I had no trouble sleeping through the partying when I wanted a quiet night. Overall I am very pleased with my stay and would definitely recommend it.
What to do in Cartagena
Take a walk through the Walled City
The old city of Cartagena is called the Walled City, which makes sense as at is indeed located inside a wall. I went on my first mission to explore the old city only hours after arriving in Cartagena and I'm glad I did. Walking down all the colourful streets gave me the feeling of having arrived in Colombia right from the very start. I found myself strolling aimlessly around for hours, taking some photos, climbing the wall, buying cups of fruit from people on the street and just getting wonderfully lost. It may have taken an additional hour to find my way back out of the Walled City, but I did not mind. I had nowhere I needed to be anyway, and that alone is an amazing feeling. During the evening the streets come alive as some of the streets turn into pedestrian zones and people emerge from everywhere. Make sure you do not get run down by the occasional horse and carriage and just enjoy the experience.
Visit Playa Blanca
Playa Blanca is located on Isla Barù, right outside Cartagena, and is known to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the Cartagena area. It is common to take a ferry to get there, but I opted on a shuttle bus organised by my hostel, which cost 50 000 pesos. I only went to Playa Blanca on a day trip. Other travellers from my hostel chose to stay overnight in one of the many hostels located on the beach. As Cartagena does not have the beautiful white beaches you might expect from a Caribbean destination, I would definitely recommend a visit to Playa Blanca.
Some people recommend going on a weekday as the beach tends to be less crowded. I went on a Monday, but as it was also a public holiday, I really could not say which day would be better. The general recommendation seem to be to walk as far to the right as possible and you will be able to find a somewhat private spot. I did and I was fine. One thing you will not be able to escape are the numerous people trying to sell you stuff. You will find them rubbing your feet and basically stuffing food down your throat only to charge you for it afterwards, even though you were clear about not wanting it. Stay firm and tell them off, or do like me; give in and enjoy an overpriced yet very much needed massage. I only half-regretted it afterwards.
Take a walk (or a bike) to Boca Grande
Boca Grande is apparently often compared to Miami. It is more developed than most of Cartagena and has a nice line of skyscrapers, which is what drew my attention to Boca Grande. It is also where the city beach is located. The walk in itself is nothing special, but you get to walk by the ocean and watch the skyscrapers becoming bigger as you walk. Cartagena is very hot and humid, so I recommend bringing a bikini and go for a dip in the ocean once you are there. I did not and ended up escaping the heat by going into an air conditioned shopping mall. The ocean would probably have been my preferred solution for cooling down.
I went to Boca Grande on a Sunday and it was crowded, both with locals and sales people. I was not bothered by the sales people until I sat down to have a mango juice, but while seated at the beach bar I was offered to buy everything from massages and jewellery to Spanish lessons and day trips. It is safe to say that I would have enjoyed my juice more if they were not there. I did however enjoy sitting on a rock by the ocean, dipping my feet and watching the people. There were a lot of locals on the beach that day and people watching is always entertaining.
Watch the sunset from the wall
When walking through the old city you will at one point reach the wall, and on the ocean side it is possible to walk on top of it. I found the light to be very beautiful when on top of the wall, which makes it a perfect place to watch the sunset. Unfortunately it was all cloudy when I finally made it there at sunset, but I'm sure I missed out. There are a few cafes and restaurants, like Café de Paris, on top of the wall which provides you with premium view of the sunset. If you did not get to see the sunset, like me, at least walking back through the old city after dark is amazing as well.
Explore Getsemani
Getsemani is an authentic Colombian neighbourhood, which is also popular with backpackers. Some of the most popular party hostels are located in this area, but at the same time, if you stay around here, you will also be able to witness the everyday life of the locals. I loved walking through Getsemani around 8am on my way to Spanish class, alongside Colombians about to start their day. The locals are out on the street from the early morning and it is not uncommon that they greet you as you walk by. I was amazed by how natural it felt walking the streets of Cartagena, if only to visit the nearest supermarket. It is almost as if you belong here.
There are a lot of things I did not do in Cartagena, and some I probably should have. Yet I felt quite content as I left the city after a week. I may not have visited the mud volcano or Rosario Island, but I had studied Spanish for a week and been drinking rum and coke outside the Torre del Reloj at 2am with friends I made the same day. It was a good first week of travelling and I couldn't be more exited for what's to come.
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About a month in Ecuador.
